Saturday, February 22, 2014

Train-time: 6 Days on the Trans-Siberian




























I finally did it.  

I took the trans-siberian across 25% of the world, starting in Moscow and ending in Beijing.

It took 6 days in our "first class suite" (i.e., 35 sq feet room with bunk beds.  No toilet.  A shared sink w/ a spray nozzle know as a "shower").

I loved it.  

I'm inherently lazy.  There are three things I really excel at in life: napping, traveling while still holding a full-time job and being tall (6'1").  Skill #1 and #2 were well served on the train while Skill #3 made the bunk bed situation a challenge.

My typical day went as follows:

  • 9 AM: Naturally wake up to light filling our cabin (no alarm clock, thank god)
  • 10 AM: Put on my ushanka (isn't that a great name) & parka and check out a random, Siberian train station for our 30 minute stop
  • 10:30 AM - 3:30 PM: 
    • Read Infinite Jest (we finished it, long-winding footnotes & all)
    • Take some photos out the window
    • Play a little Spit.  Accuse each other of cheating.  Play again
    • Watch the topography change while laying in bed
    • Take a nap (the train basically rocked me to sleep)
    • Eat some food.  Make some tea using coal-heated, scalding water
    • Chit-chat with train neighbors about their LonelyPlanet books
  • 3:30 PM: Repeat above at another random Siberian train stop
  • 4:00 PM - 8 PM: Repeat activities above.  Start including beer & vodka in the mix.
  • 8:30 PM: Make a dinner that can fit in a large, tin cup
  • 9:00 PM: Head out for one last train stop & then read more Infinite Jest until falling asleep wondering how in the hell David Foster Wallace wrote such a witty and confusing and depressing book all at the same time.  Finishing it might just be my top accomplishment of 2014 -- it's excellent, just hard to read.

If you're planning a similar journey, here's a few recommendations on what to bring:

  • Sleeping bag:  The train-provided comforters looked questionable, at best
  • Tin camping cup & spork: We both became quite attached to our cups.  Great for tea & meals
  • Dry shampoo: We did not bring this; therefore, I got the nickname "greaser."  The showers are "budget" to say the least, and the water is too cold to use in winter
  • Playing cards: Just like on a family roadtrip, playing cards can save the day
  • Long book: Six days on a train is a great time to dive into a good book.  I'd recommend something challenging that you've been wanting to read for a long time, whether it's War & Peace or Atlas Shrugged
  • Groceries: The train restaurant is expensive with mediocre to bad food.  We brought power bars, lots of dried nuts / fruit, pasta, soup packs, muesli, crackers, cheese, sausage, herbs like mint & rosemary, etc, which made for some pretty good meals made in a tin cup. You can also grab snacks at the train stops
  • Tea: Instant coffee is gross.  We brought lots of tea
  • Slippers: There's two communal toilets per train car.  It's good to have slippers for the journey back and forth.  They are also good for hanging out since I doubt the carpet in the train cars ever gets properly cleaned
  • Toilet paper: Enough said
  • Hand towel: If you do any cooking, it's good for washing your cup or dishes
  • Carabiner: The rooms are 35 sq feet (I measured using my 6'1" body... one more use for my Skill #3).  Therefore, the more you can use the space (and hang stuff), the better 
Below are some photos from our journey.  You can find more here and even more on my hard drive.
 




















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